While bustles often make brides nervous, I am a self-proclaimed bustle advocate. So for those who have reservations or feel lost and confused as to what they are, allow me share my wisdom. (And along the way, I’ll also share advice on what makes for a bad or inefficient bustle.)
the bustle struggle
Bustles are consistently the element that brides are the most averse to and confused about. Generally, brides know they need one but usually they come to me having no idea what that means, what it entails, or what it would look like. And unfortunately, Cinderella’s step sisters’s dresses have also left most of people with a bad impression.
so…what really is a bustle?
I suppose, it’s kind of fashion’s fault that people don’t understand what bustles are because aside from them not being common we really haven’t made the term crystal clear. Let me explain.
The word “bustle” refers to the way that the train of a gown is gathered up so that it becomes floor length and allows free and uninhibited movement – for partying, ease and comfort, etc. And a bustle is made up of “bustle points” which are each individual types or points of connections (clasps and loops, buttons and loops, snaps, or ties) that gather or *bustle up a layer. *Oh and, yes, “bustle” is also used as verb in reference to “bustling up” a skirt or a having a train that needs to be “bustled.” Confused? I apologize. Essentially, it goes like this: a bustle gathers up (or bustles) a train using multiple bustle points (of different kinds).
the truth about bustles
Aside from the practical details people don’t understand, what most don’t know is just how beautiful bustles can be. Whether you’ve seen unattractive, overly-complicated, or unflattering ones, what you may not know is that bustles can be beautiful features that compliment the dress. And there are so many options! And the best seamstresses will even combine styles so that layers are bustled in the way that suits them best.
types of bustles
There are many different ways to bustle a train, but the 3 most common types are over/American, under/French, and Ballroom bustles. Over bustles bring up a point on the outside of the train and attach to a higher spot (also on the outer part of the train), and a French bustle does the same thing but on the inside/underneath the skirt. And a Ballroom bustle takes the edge of the hem and and attaches it to the underside or lining layers of the skirt so that the entire skirt appears floor-length without any visible train. There are others such as Austrian that really aren’t done that often, as well as names that people use for what is essentially a combination of the more common types.
Truthfully, I almost always use a combination of different bustle types. For instance, bustling the lining with Ballroom points eliminates having buttons or loops showing underneath sheer or lace layers when un-done, as well as allowing any beautiful bustling and styling of such layers to be more easily seen and distinguished. (Too many layers of ornately styled bustling will just blend together visually, diminish the effect, and will likely just look bulky.) I’ve even tested new methods and created unique options when the style of the skirt needing something special that didn’t distract or impede the original.
expert bustle tips
So now that you’ve gotten a bit of insight into what a bustle really is, I want to share a few tips on what to look for and what to avoid.
1. Get you a seamstress who gives you options.
You do not have to settle when it comes to your bustle. If your seamstress isn’t willing or able to be creative with you and show you different styles, it might be a red flag. And even if they’ve done an amazing job and you want them to do the bulk of your alterations but they’re not comfortable or flexible with what you’re asking, there is nothing wrong with seeing if someone else would be willing to add your bustle.
2. Your bustle should feel like a magic trick.
A bustle should be both completely seamless when not in use and a gorgeous feature when done up. For example, your bustle shouldn’t involve a series of noticeable buttons or loops on a simple, unembellished skirt or visible loops on a net or chiffon layer.
3. Your bustle should never drag. EVER.
As a seamstress, one of my ultimate cringy, pet-peeves is seeing photographs of brides with so-called bustles that drag for inches on the floor. The entire purpose of a bustle is to allow you to dance and party without a second-thought to your skirt or train. If you can’t walk backwards for a few steps without stepping on your skirt, it’s basically pointless. That may seem harsh or dramatic, but it’s so upsetting to me! A bustle should convert your skirt hem to floor-length 360º around. And if it doesn’t, it’s a trip-hazard and your seamstress has charged you for something that doesn’t serve you well.
4. Bring a friend or a camera for a tutorial. (Or ask for notes)
You are not going to be the person bustling your dress, so it really does help to bring the person who will to your pick-up appointment so they can get a tutorial and practice. I’ve also had clients and their friends take videos of me bustling the train so they can reference at the reception. And I’ve even sent emails with notes on how many points are on each layer or even pdf’s with diagrams.
Optional – book Bridal Dressing Services!
Feeling insecure or worried about whether your bridal party will be able to remember how to do it – or will be sober enough to manage? (Hey, it’s a celebration – I get it!) Then consider booking Bridal Dressing so that your actual seamstress will be there to work her magic and bustle your dress easily and quickly. After all, who better to do so than the person who sewed it? Added perk: I’ll be there to take care of any other attire needs or emergencies that come up!
I really hope this helps you feel less foggy or confused about what you need and are getting. And I’m always here to answer questions or provide tips or insight – just reach out here.
And if you’d love to get me to create your gorgeous bustle, book your fitting today!
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